October 2005 Vol. 2 Issue 7

LIVING OFF THE GRID
by Mary Austin Crofts

When we moved to Bocas we began by renting on Bluff Beach, six miles out of town. Among our challenges was learning to live off the grid. We were told right away there would be no hair dryers, hot plates or other high voltage appliances allowed. Okay, I can live with this because we were trying to simplify our lives. Psyched up, we said, “We’re ready!”

We have learned many things that will help us successfully build and live on our lot on Isla Solarte. When you’re off the grid, you must pay attention to how much power and water you have all the time. It has naturally made us more conservation-minded than ever before. We take "sailor showers", limit our power use and feel good about our impact on the fragile environment. Almost nothing goes to waste because we have chickens.

For electricity we have the sun, for water we have the rain and for cooking, heating water and refrigeration, we use propane gas. There is also a backup generator, used when it is cloudy, to charge the batteries and operate tools.

We love the rain because it helps fill the cisterns. Water is collected from the aluminum roof in gutters and directed to the water storage tanks. There’s an old rhyme we follow, “In this fragile place of sea and sun, we don’t flush for number one.”

Propane tanks and gas cans need to be kept filled and the refrigerator system must be cleaned from carbon buildup. Hot water heaters, propane stoves, ovens and water systems also need to be maintained.

Things don’t always work properly and getting experts to come way out here to fix something is problematic. Mechanics that work on systems are few and may be up to 10 hours drive, or a day or week away depending on their schedules.

SOME GOOD TIPS ABOUT EQUIPMENT:

• On-demand hot water heaters, the size of carry-on luggage, are propane gas-operated and very reliable.
  
  
• Most solar equipment is imported from the U.S. and is expensive to buy and maintain.
  
  
• Gas refrigerators are necessary because electric ones usually take too much power. They must be elevated off the floor 8-10” and be totally level. Concrete dust will kill a gas refrigerator.
  
  
• Establish an easy way to prime your water pump during the installation. Water pumps are huge consumers of electricity. We turn ours off regularly and shut valves to avoid losing the prime. Always have an extra pump and spare parts on hand.
  
  
• Cover solar panels with clear material to protect from the salt in the air.
  
  
• Brita or PUR water filters are essential.
  
  
• Chickens are a valuable asset as they eat bugs, fruit and vegetable waste, give fertilizer and lay eggs!

As a result of our experiment on Bluff Beach, we think we are better prepared to live our dream on the Island of Solarte!

EDITOR’S CORNER

• Recent comments from Bocas Breeze readers:
  
  
• I have been encouraged by your commitment to community and the progress you have made.
  
  
• As one of your advertisers, I must say that the September issue was the best ever.
  
  
• I applaud you for having the courage to address these issues, and doing it in such a humorous way!
  
  
• Bocas needs this newspaper.
  
  
• Thank you for bringing up issues that are important to the people who live here.
  
  
• Thanks for trying to put out a "news" paper and not just fluff.
  
  
• I love the Bocas Breeze! I always look forward to reading them.
  
  
• The first thing I do every time I arrive in Panama is pick up the Bocas Breeze at the airport.
  
  
• Just keep doing what you’re doing!

Thank you so much for all of your support! There would be no newspaper without you! (P.S. All of those who have promised some funny stories and other articles, please send them soon!) Have a great month and play well together.

Melody Burt

When we first discovered Bocas, my friend and I had the opportunity to visit the island of Cayo Agua (water key). A local native had cleared 100 hectares (247 acres) of land and wanted us to see it. After picking our way through 10-foot swells and huge coral heads, we landed safely on a beach near an Indian village.

Upon seeing us gringos, the entire village emptied out and ran down the hill toward us. Some of them had machetes and I decided to try not to do anything that might piss them off, like holding my mouth wrong or wearing my hat backwards. I mean, who knows! As it turned out, they came to greet us and help us roll our boat up onto the beach with logs.

After shaking everyone’s hands, the elder insisted on showing us the 247 acres they’d just cleared. We inspected every inch of the land, and I do mean every single inch, which might not have been so bad had I not been barefoot! It took two tubes of Neosporin, two cases of Atlas and a bottle of Seco to heal up. Nevertheless, the sight of the whole village waving good-bye was a National Geographic Bocas moment!

Recycling – Bocas Breeze Style!
by Rebecca Wright

On the cover of the Bocas Breeze newspaper it says, “Keep or pass it on”. I wouldn’t know because I always read it and then use it. Here are some ideas on how to recycle this great rag!

Ø Snail-mail it to the folks at home. It’s all great, and the photos are fab!

Ø Use it to soak up the grease from your next fried fish dish.

Ø It’s 8 ½ by 11, which makes it an accurate measuring tool.

Ø Use it as a straight-edge or right angle.

Ø Take it apart and use it as a splash-board when the kids finger-paint.

Ø Line your cupboards, but change often, as bugs love the paper, too.

Ø Use it to make patterns for sewing your own clothes

Ø Melody Burt adds: You can always use it when you run out of toilet paper!

In our house we do not throw into our landfill one single piece of the Bocas Breeze or any other possibly recyclable anything! Share more ideas with us next month at BocasBreeze@yahoo.com.

HIGH ON A HILL
by Mary Austin Crofts

When the adventuresome Christie Parr decided to retire, it was her dream to build a totally self-sufficient home high on a hill near the water. Recently her dream came true as she invited friends and family to an open house celebrating the completion of her new home on Isla Solarte.

In between, it wasn’t so easy though. Christie, now 76, faced a major heart attack, quintuple bypass surgery last year and a broken leg in March. She has overcome it all and now spends as much time as possible in her home ‘high on a hill’. Next time you’re in the neighborhood, stop by for a visit.

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Real Estate Services

“Serving Bocas & Chiriqui”

Bocas del Toro

507-757-9653 or 6649-1283

Chiriqui

507-6617-8629

www.considerpanama.com

Each office is independently owned and operated

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BOCAS FERIA DEL MAR!!!

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Women Helping Women
By Tom McCormack

While working as a volunteer in western Panama through the Farmer – to – Farmer program, I became aware of a particular need. Women who undergo mastectomies have no opportunity to obtain external prosthetic devices. After starting this project about one year ago, along with Jose Camargo, Roswitha Firth, and the generosity of local people, I have been able to take a number of used prostheses and wigs to Panama; 150 to date, however, the need is still great. I am now working with a Panamanian doctor, Reinel Camargo, Hospital Dr. Rafael Hernandez L, David, Panama, who coordinates needs with donations. This program is totally free to anyone, Panamanian or foreigner, with “no strings attached”.

One recipient of a donation from this area is Rosa, a young mother in Chiriqui, Panama. She had undergone surgery over a year ago and until receiving her donated prosthesis, walked with her head down and her arms crossed in front of her. The smile on her face reflects her new confidence.

This project is sponsored by the “Women Helping Women” program, in cooperation with the American Cancer Society of Harrisburg, PA,, Allegheny General Hospital, Pittsburgh PA Linda Duncan RN Breast Cancer Unit and the Penn Breast Cancer coalition. For more information on how you can help women regain their smiles and a new lease on life please contact:

Tom McCormack
TLMCCOR@CCIA.COM

Dr. Reinel Camargo, MD.
507-774-8419
Office Hours: 12:30 – 5:30 p.m.
Located on Calle Central, one block
behind Hotel Puerta del Sol in David

In cooperation with “Women Helping Women” program,
Linda Duncan, RN, Manager Breast Care Center,
Allegheny General Hospital
320 East North Avenue, Pittsburgh, PA 15212
412-359-6597

In cooperation with the
Pennsylvania Breast Cancer Coalition
287 Duke Street, Ephrata, PA 17522
1-800-377-8828

In cooperation with the
American Cancer Society
3211 N. Front St., Suite 100
Harrisburg, PA 17110
Phone 717-231-5780
Fax 717-231-5784
www.cancer.org

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It is still possible to ride the Almirante Railroad, a unique rail travel experience. This railroad, built to the narrow track gauge of three feet, was constructed for the transport of bananas. The system once extended deep into Costa Rica but has been gradually cut back to the Changuinola area in the face of ever increasing road haulage. Banana traffic faded away altogether at the end of 2004, leaving the Changuinola passenger trains as the only regular traffic.

There are two ways to make this amazing trip. The first is to travel on one of the regular passenger trains for just 50 cents each way. This requires an early start from Bocas Town, as the train departs from Almirante at 07.00. It runs three times a week, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, leaving from opposite the Surtidore Gigante store, a short walk from the water taxi terminal. (Turn left and follow the rail tracks upon reaching the road.) The journey, with frequent stops, takes 1 1/2 hours and leaves Changuinola at 12.00 on its return trip.

The second option is to charter the entire train, which can be done, to more convenient timings on the days that the passenger service does not run.

Survival of this remarkable train is because settlements that have grown up beside the tracks have no alternative road access. As a result, there are several schools beside the small stations along the line. The route is full of interest throughout the journey capturing the full flavor of the area through which it passes, from the streets in Almirante to the isolated jungle homes.

These amazing passenger cars of all-steel construction are as basic as they come and only two of the original 10 or more cars now remain. They are without glazed windows or any sort of cushioning on the seats, but this is the very attraction of the journey. A wonderful view is offered from the fantastic observation car with its ornamental verandah. Truly a world class, “character” rail travel experience!
For more information call Harold Dailey at 758-3289 or 6-511-7104.
 

Generally speaking, it takes a year just in construction time to build a nice home in Bocas. Popular local construction practices involve digging large holes for concrete reinforced footings, columns and beams up to the second floor level. The ordering, scheduling and delivery of cement, sand, gravel, re-bar and wood materials from their varying sources generally will take a couple of months. Excavation, forming, rebar work, mixing, pouring, etc., will probably take another 3 to 4 months. These estimates do not account for rainouts or holidays. Conservatively speaking, the main structure can take 6 months and $30,000 dollars including transportation, parties and weather.

Our pole-building home was built in just 6 months, start to finish. The footings were cast in a week and the 25’ pilings were set in 3 days. We set them by hand using manpower and a block and tackle arrangement lashed to the top of a nearby tree. On our lot, a crane wasn’t even an option. Our laborers dug the holes, placed the footers and set the piles, backfilling and tamping the crushed rock.

The outside poles were braced with long 2 x 4’s nailed to stakes pounded into the ground. Interior poles were braced to each other and to the outside poles. When the poles were plumbed the girders were bolted on. Due to subterranean obstructions and human error, some of the poles were not set in line. Fortunately pole-building construction is very forgiving. As long as roof girders line up, floor girders can absorb the difference.

When the support poles had been notched at the prescribed levels, the girders were bolted in place. Floor joists were installed and a sub-floor of treated pine was added to give a platform from which the roof structure could be raised. Scaffolding was nailed to the support poles to create a level from which to reach the peak. Then the notched crossbeams of 8 x 8 Criollo were raised and spiked into place. After that the length-wise Pine poles were lifted into place. These were left loose for better alignment of the 24-foot long rafters.

The house was designed for 1800 sq. ft. upstairs, but with 5 feet of over-hang, the roof occupied an area of 3000 sq. ft. This was the single greatest part of the house, and it occupied 7 weeks of our construction time.

Even with the added notching and leveling needed due to the use of round poles, the roof construction went quicker and was less expensive than a conventional trussed roof. The interior visual effect was also more appealing.

Please feel free to come and visit our new home and review these building concepts. We are located at Marina Carenero and welcome visitors and prospective builders when we are home.

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