February 2006 Vol. 2 Issue 3

BECALMED IN BOCAS - Part I
by Roy Turner

` a man a plan a canal panama ´

For many years that was the longest sensible palindrome in English until computer geeks got at it. Now the longest is several thousand words of meaningless rubbish. But I remember Panama.

Over thirty years ago I sailed through the flooded valley that connects the famed Panama canal locks, on my way from the Pacific to the Caribbean. Now, in 2005, I was again in Panama. Or, more correctly, in Bocas del Toro on Isla Colon off Panamas' northeast coast, in the Caribbean, and new home to my friends Jan and Phil. They moved here a year ago and, with their diving instructor son Tony, they took over 'Starfleet Scuba' (www.starfleetscuba.com) one of the diving schools in the Caribbean.

I arrived on the island in a small plane from Panama City, which touched down at the island’s pride and joy, its airport, with a runway that just stops at the edge of the local kids soccer pitch! On the way, you fly over an archipelago of islets, each set in a calm blue ocean and each richly green right down to the waters edge. Palms top them, trees cover them, and mangroves spread across sandy inlets increasing their size over the millennia

So, Bocas del Toro. The name of a region, an archipelago and a town. For the islands, imagine an azure sea, hardly troubled by the zephyr breeze which ruffles the palm leaves above the golden sands reflecting the bright sunshine beating down from a cloud speckled blue sky......yadiyadiya.....well, you won't be that far off the mark, if you are as lucky with the weather as I was.

Add a few more clouds, pump up the humidity, keep the temperature about Regulo 7, throw in an overnight deluge to dampen down the largely unsurfaced roads, add a wild-frontier-town feel, and you have it. Bocas does mostly comprise turn-of-the-century wooden, tin-roofed and verandah-hung buildings. Signs of the times, however, abound. Internet cafes alternate with surf shops along the main road, newly-built and new-owned restaurants and shops are appearing.

Accommodations of all types are available from well-used back-packers rooms from $10 to brand new suites-for-two at $140, and all central to the cafes and restaurants. You can be very comfortable for $50 to $70, safe for far less and would be hard pressed to spend $15 on a good meal with a drink. Even fresh-from-the-sea lobster only tips in at around $17 in a `top-end` restaurant, and the same price gets a bottle of Bordeaux! For a good blow out and the best soup in the place, at half the price, check out Mike and Lydia’s Scuba Snacks.

From the breakfast deck of my hotel, (the Vista Mar, newly built, clean, affordable and comfortable), projecting way out over the water so crystal clear you do not need to go out snorkeling, I saw shoals of a wide variety of colourful fish, bright red starfish on the bottom and amazingly patterned crabs scuttling for cover. More worryingly, I watched foot-long silver fish leaping out of the water to avoid some predator. Someone suggested barracuda, so I carefully lifted my toes from the lapping waves. But I was also told they had seen barracuda leaping! …… Let's not go there!

(To be continued in the February issue. Won’t be in Bocas? No problem, just read it online at www.TheBocasBreeze.com!)

BOCAS BLURBS
Community News

Bocas Newcomers is a newly-formed women’s group that meets the first Wednesday each month. The next meeting is Feb 1st at 2:00 pm at Bocas Inn (Ancon). For more information see page 10.

The Bocas Garden Club will meet on Saturday, February 11, 2006 at 1:15 p.m. (boat leaves at 1:30) in front of the Reef restaurant for a trip to Green Acres Farm near Dolphin Bay. Dave and Linda Cerutti will give us a tour of their chocolate farm. Cost is approximately $7.00 for round trip water taxi. Members RSVP to Susan Hahn by email at sosueme27@yahoo.com or by phone to Linda at 6-638-8961 by WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8TH.

Contest! The Bocas Breeze is holding a contest for the funniest story in Bocas. Submit your article (max. 500 words) article telling us what happened to you in Bocas and win a free dinner courtesy of the Bocas Breeze. The contest deadline is Feb.18th. Please contact the newspaper if you have questions. Call 6-683-1369 or email BocasBreeze@yahoo.com.

PAPAYA: A NATURAL REMEDY!
by Ansa Gardner

I grew up in South Africa and spent time diving in a neighboring country, Mozambique. During a short entry I stepped on a sea urchin – you know, those spiny critters! Three of the spines embedded themselves in my foot. A local citizen fixed a remedy for me. He picked a green papaya, called pawpaw, skinned it, and wrapped the sin around my foot. At the time we did not have a bandage so he used a banana leaf to hold it in place. Because I couldn’t walk, I laid down and went to sleep. The next morning when I woke up, the urchin spines were in the papaya skin instead of my foot!

On January 6th the Municipal Council of the Province of Bocas del Toro and Mayor Eligio Binns had a public meeting in an extraordinary session to approve the Budget of Rents and Expenses for fiscal year 2006. The audience clapped as the Mayor read the verification and approval of the new budget in the amount of $1,033,060.00. For the first time in the history of Bocas del Toro the amount approved far exceeded any previous budget ($150,000.00) assigned by the government. Execution of the budget will be carried out immediately, since the Mayor has already collected $40,000.00.

Mayor Binns said: "We have taken an historical step... and the citizenship waits for our answer.... which will depend on the honesty in the administration of this budget, to reflect the citizens hopes and needs..." He mentioned some key points, one being that part of the budget would be destined to modernize the Municipality and to help solve problems that have developed in the province in order to fulfill the needs of the population.

Funds were approved to appoint the creation of a Secretary of Culture and a Secretary of Sports to develop these types of activities for the youth and children.

The new budget allows the creation of a Municipal Engineering Department in charge of three civil employees.

1. A Department of Development will be created to guarantee social developments for the community, thus naming also a Municipal Planner.
   
   
2. An Ornamental and Municipal Cleanliness Direction will be created to guarantee the cleaning of the main cities of the Province such as Isla Colón, Carenero and Bastimentos. Six civil employees for the areas to be cleaned will be designated.
   
   
3. A Legal Adviser for the Municipality will also be designated.
   
   
4. 58% of the budget will be used for investment developments so that money from the citizens can be reverted back to the community. This means that the budget will be destined, to a large extent, for social work, rather than lists or wages. A budget of $350.000,00 is assigned for such things as restoring Parque Bolivar on Bocas Island ($10,000.00).

According to the Mayor, these are great steps in preparation for the decentralization plans of the federal government.

Then the public was given the opportunity to ask questions in which the subject of garbage was raised. The mayor responded that they are looking for solutions to the garbage dump. They hope to use $60,000,00 to buy 65 hectares of land for a modern garbage disposal system that avoids damage to the ecosystem. A study will be done to contract with a company to be in charge of the garbage collection.

The pleased crowd clapped when the finalized 2006 budget was unanimously sustained and approved by the Communal Council. Debts will be paid with the budget in preparation to face the hard work of this year and in 2007. Copies of the budget will be available to the general public.

2ND ANNUAL LIGHTED 2005 XMAS BOAT PARADE WINNERS

They did it again and it was even better than last year! Eligio Binns, Mayor of Bocas del Toro, along with local businesses sponsored the now-traditional annual Lighted 2005 Christmas Boat Parade and it was a sight to behold!

This year, for the first time, a beauty pageant was incorporated into the event. There were 4 sponsors, Hotel Bahia, Hotel El Limbo, Blue Nasty Mermaid and Big Bamboo. This year’s winner, Ms. Anyuri Trotman, represented the Blue Nasty Mermaid. We hope this will be an ongoing tradition in the years to come.

Congratulations to the following winners:

First Place: Mantaraya & the Bomberos
Second Place: Changing Tides – Jeff & Ansa
Third Place: Cygnus – Dave Shipton

First Place: Zapatilla - Jan Williams
Second Place: Virco
Third Place: Barco Hundido

A CHRISTMAS EVE IN BOCAS
by Franklin

“You can stay here anytime. I’ve got an extra bed,” my pal in Bocas told me after I had related the problems of getting a boat back to Bastimentos late at night. So, on the night before Christmas, my toothbrush and change of clothes packed and left at my pal’s, we went out to celebrate. After a buffet feast and drinking followed by dancing to old-time rock and roll, we staggered back to his place. Flopping down on the veranda I confessed, “That was the best Xmas eve I’ve had in a long time!” Just then his landlady, passing through the veranda, asked him coldly, “Is HE going to spend the night?” My pal, obviously intimidated by her and her question with a disdainful emphasis on “HE”, whimpered meekly, “Uh, uh, NO!”

I could not believe what I had just heard and was shocked into sobriety! How could he change his mind just like that – at this hour, without a hint to me before? What kind of a pal was he anyway? When I questioned him, he merely stated, “She obviously doesn’t like you and doesn’t want you to stay here.”

“Man, she never said that,” I reminded him. Then I asked, “Haven’t you been to Jamaica?” He nodded affirmatively. “Then you know that the strong women there have an attitude, much like your big, bad-acting landlady here. It’s just an offensive defense so nobody will try to take advantage of them.”

“I’m sorry,” he said, still not getting it, “but I have to stay here for a few more weeks and I don’t want any problems with her.” “That is cold!” I huffed, grabbed my bag and went out into the late night, joining a few straggling party animals and insomniacs.

I looked everywhere, prowling every dock for a boatman. NADA. I looked for a room anywhere. NADA. Every inn, hostel and hotel was full and locked up. The bench was cold and hard where I sat, exhausted, dejected and miserable. Was it an angel disguised as a drunk that guided me to the only available resting place – a manger – where I laid my head and slept like a baby?

I awoke on Christmas morning to a miracle. I had no hangover, everything was new and all was forgiven.

MY BOCAS CATBIRD
by Mary Austin Crofts (assistance and photo credit: Kim Crofts)

I need to start this story by saying that I have never been accused of being crazy. In fact, I have always been known as a reasonable, if not passionate, person.

It started 4 years ago when we first visited Bocas. At that time, we were introduced to our first “Catbird”. We loved their ‘mewing’ call and beautiful color, movements and flight. Sometimes, its call often sounds like “Mary”, although more like “mae-ree”. On that trip we purchased a lot on Solarte and began dreaming the dream - coming to Bocas, building our dream house and settling here in paradise.

Two years ago, I was walking up one of our favorite canyons in Hailey, Idaho, and heard “mae-ree”. It gave me chills and I froze for just a second. I was alone and thought,” No one will ever believe me!” So I didn’t tell anyone except my husband and he laughed whole-heartedly. Three days later, I had an early meeting so Kim took the kids for their early morning walk. He came back to say,” I heard him this morning.”

After repeated sightings and audio messages, the Catbird ended up at one of our backyard feeders. It even had a terrible collision with our kitchen window. Imagine how relieved we were when it took flight again when rested and released. We began learning about this treasured, now family symbol and were astonished to learn that Idaho wasn’t within their migratory range. The Gray Cat Bird originally comes from the lowlands of Bocas del Toro, Republic of Panama.

Each time we returned to Bocas we always saw one of these precious little birds. Since then, the Catbird seems to follow us. We would see and hear him on walks regularly at home and he seemed to be urging us to follow our dream to move to Bocas.

We arrived in Bocas in August of 2004 and moved to Bluff Beach. Alas, no Catbird. Then, in mid-January one arrived just outside our cabina and called to us. It was about 5:00 p.m. on January 17, 2005. That happened to be the exact hour that my Mother passed away in Minnesota. I didn’t find out until the next morning however, and it gave me pause.

A few months ago we moved to Solarte - our dream island. Almost immediately, Panama’s “Gray Catbird” visited, showing off his beautiful color and calling to me, “mae ree.” Once again, I got chills and decided this must be where we are “supposed to be!”

BOCAS NEWCOMERS

The purpose of this group is to welcome women new to Bocas del Toro, to provide assistance in orientation, to promote friendship and culture among women of all nationalities and to encourage individual participation in community activities.

· Share ideas

· Ask questions

· Socialize

· Network

· Participate in activities: Spanish lessons, group shopping trips to Price Smart, tropical adventures, exercise groups, cooking classes

MAKE NEW FRIENDS AND ENJOY OUR TROPICAL LIFESTYLE IN BOCAS DEL TORO

Questions: Call Dorreene Reynolds at 6-642-1911

SMITHSONIAN NEWS
by Iris Marquinez

On December 17th, STRI Bocas received a visit from the Panama Verde Group (Riscó Valley Community), along with two Peace Corps volunteers. In this group, adolescents learn about conservation and sustainable development by doing different activities. From these activities they acquire positive personal qualities such as leadership and a high regard for nature. The boys belong to indigenous rural communities without public services. In order to make this visit, they held different fund-raising activities like the raffle of a gas tank, and the sale of journey cakes.

During the three hours they spend in the station they learned about the different marine ecosystems and their interrelationships. To their astonishment, they got to touch and admire some echinoderms (starfish, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, etc.). In addition they moved through the activities, many guessing questions correctly, with a good flow of interchange and communication.

The manner in which some of the kids expressed themselves left no question as to the great work of the directors of Green Panama. Plinio and I were enriched by their visit, and were please that the experience was mutually satisfying for all.

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